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Under the Table: Saucy Tales from Culinary School, by Katherine Darling
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A deliciously entertaining memoir about one woman's adventures in the student kitchens of the legendary French Culinary Institute -- flavored with celebrity chefs, eccentric characters, and mouthwatering recipes
To anyone who has ever dreamed of life in a French kitchen, imagining days filled with puff pastry and sips of vintage wine, Katherine Darling serves up a savory dose of reality in this funny, fascinating, and altogether delightful account of her time spent slaving over a hot stove, wrestling with veal calves, and cleaning fish heads at the French Culinary Institute in downtown New York City.
As she goes from clueless amateur to certified chef, Katherine and her quirky fellow students learn the secrets behind the art of French cooking and frequently find themselves the objects of scorn and ridicule as their teachers wage psychological warfare over steaming pots of bisque. The kitchen, they soon discover, is no place for soft-hearted romantics. It's a cutthroat world, and no one ever made a soufflé without breaking a few eggs -- or cracking a few heads together. From the basics to the final exam, Darling reveals everything that goes into the making of a chef.
Filled with delicious food lore and trivia, and including dozens of classic and original French recipes, Under the Table takes readers deep into the trenches of one of the world's most prestigious cooking schools -- and shows what really goes on behind the doors of every great restaurant kitchen.
- Sales Rank: #1386819 in eBooks
- Published on: 2009-03-29
- Released on: 2009-04-14
- Format: Kindle eBook
From Publishers Weekly
Readers dreaming of culinary school can indulge vicariously through this engaging memoir by food writer Darling. In her 20s, armed with a passion for cooking, the author left her job at a Manhattan literary agency to enroll at the French Culinary Institute. She takes what appears to be a day-by-day analysis of her entire six-month experience and extracts more narrative than might be thought possible, conveying the challenging process in episodes from omelet minutiae to the larger victories of culinary education. Darling makes the most of various incidents with her classmates who become competitors, comrades and co-conspirators—sometimes all three. As they progress together through the school's four levels to graduation, the author expands on their lessons with end-of-chapter recipes. Though the book doesn't stake out original territory, it thoroughly captures the built-in drama of a professional cook's education. (Apr.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
From Booklist
Blessed with a mother who took cooking for her family very seriously, Darling is inspired to give up her office job to take the family passion to a new level as a professional chef. She enrolls at New York City’s famed French Culinary Institute, but she finds immediately that school presents unanticipated challenges. Her fellow students run the gamut from brash urban youths to small-town naïfs not quite up to big-city challenges. A demanding curriculum keeps students hopping, and some instructors lack social graces, bluntly belittling their charges. Students are not above taking out their frustrations on one another, one of them going so far as to impale the author with a vicious trussing needle. Darling manages to hook up with a few other seriously committed students and eventually graduates first in her class. A few well-chosen recipes appear, an especially intriguing one transforming a mayonnaise disaster into a tasty pasta sauce. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
“[Darling] writes with uninhibited zest. . . . A charming memoir.”
—The Wall Street Journal
“You’ll find yourself relishing every word to the last page, like a biscuit sopping up that last drip of syrup.”
—Southern Living
“[A] food-related memoir women everywhere will love—even you takeout types.”
—Glamour
Most helpful customer reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Hoping for better
By Book Hound
This book is entertaining if you have a fairly wide culinary experience. However it's not what I'd call "gripping." The author occasionally has moments of self-depreciation, but it's not believable. Her ego comes thru loud and clear. The description of culinary school is interesting to one who has never attended and always wondered. The author tries to make you like her and admire her culinary skills, however by the end of the book, she was irritating and incredibly "perfect." Entertaining but not fascinating....
2 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Fascinating look inside real life at cooking school
By Jo Ann Graham
Katherine Darling tells a tale that will make many want-to-be chefs stop and think twice before committing to a career in the kitchen. She makes us see, feel and understand the rigorous curriculum and exhaustion from long hours needed to pass a first class chef's training. Her skill with a pen as well as a whisk makes us know and love (or hate) the vivid characters she meets there. The recipes she sprinkles throughout the book are not too hard for even a novice and add interest to this wonderful story. There are times when I question her overwhelming commitment and the cold hearted nature of the school -- especially when her grandfather dies and she is denied a phone call to her grandmother. But all in all I really enjoyed the characters and the lessons in life that they learned in the kitchen.
5 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
This is a mixed review
By Marcy L. Thompson
There are things I like a lot about this book. These things include that parts of it are quite well-written, there are some genuine insights into what attending the chef programme at FCI is like, and the recipes work pretty well.
There are things I hated about this book. These things include that other parts of it are ludicrously poorly written, that the author very often comes off as a petulant child, that stories are started but not finished (or told in ways that lessen their impact).
Overall, even when the book works well, it seems like a string of amusing anecdotes about culinary school, rather than a coherent narrative about attending culinary school. Perhaps the subtitle of the book should have warned me about this, but I was still disappointed by it.
One of the main points the author makes is that prior to attending FCI, she was a skilled cook who didn't really understand cooking. She skipped steps in recipes, without realizing what effect that had on the dish. She learned that there's a reason you let dough rest, for example, and when she did it, she found that the resulting pastry was better than when she skipped that step. Well, there's a whole mountain of accumulated knowledge about how to construct memoirs so that they offer more to the reader than a string of memories presented in chronological order. It appears to me that the author is as ignorant of that body of knowledge as she was about the mechanics of cooking before her culinary education. It shows in this book. Much like her pre-FCI omelets were inferior to what she learned to make in Level 1, this memoir is far inferior to what it might have been, had she only known.
Anyway, not a total waste of my time, but I think that this author would have written a better book about this experience had she let it simmer for a few more years.
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